Diego Padilla

Mezcal is the New Holy Water

At least that’s what Diego Padilla, founder of Mezcal Under Ground, thinks—we’re keen to listen.

Mezcal is a spiritual thing. I didn’t quite realize it until I was on my fourth jabali, swaying uncontrollably to ambient electro in a cavernous mezcaleria in Mexico City. There was an occult din about the crowd; all nodding and humming in unison at 100bpm. It was 4am.

Nota bene: one beer will bring you to your knees on day one if you’re stupid enough to drink after arriving from below sea level.

I met Diego almost immediately after I moved into my Airbnb in the hip, Roma Norte neighborhood for a summer assignment. He’s Head Bartender at Felix, pushing out craft cocktails alongside Neapolitan pizzas that rival Roberta’s in Bushwick minus the line-out-the-door catastrophe.

I was a wine guy until I tried mezcal.

I sat down with Diego in his favorite coffee shop to discuss agave, Mexican folklore, and why you probably won’t get a hangover.

Nicholas Crown: How old were you when you discovered mezcal?
Diego Padilla: I was 18 with my mother. We were visiting this huge folklore festival in Oaxaca: music, food—people getting drunk.

NC: So, it wasn't in a dark room somewhere or behind the proverbial garage?
DP: Well, I was always drinking whatever I could get at parties where no one gives a fuck. When you’re a kid it just needs to be cheap and enough. I was never keen on tequila. The first time I really enjoyed mezcal, you know, something to try and observe and to really enjoy, was when I moved back to Mexico City.

NC: Why is mezcal receiving so much attention right now?
DP: There's boom, it's in fashion. And it's in fashion everywhere, not just in Mexico City. People are just starting to pay attention now because a lot has changed about the spirit. It was banned for many years; it was infamous. It's a little bit similar to the absinthe story. But for mezcal you don’t need a secret recipe, you just need time.

NC: How would you respond to Mezcal being a ‘smoky tequila’?
DP: First of all, tequila is a mezcal because it comes from agave. Any spirit that comes from agave must be called mezcal. The reason it's called tequila is the denomination of origin.

NC: Where it comes from as opposed to what it comes from.
DP: Yes. Basically, Jose Cuervo was the first licensed person to make tequila around the 17th or 18th century, while other distilled beverages weren’t permitted. Jose Cuervo is from Tequila, Jalisco, of course. Eventually, the demand grew so large for his spirit that the process had to become industrial and the laws had to be changed in order to continue production. There was simply too much money at stake. Now, tequila doesn’t have to be made from pure Blue Agave; you only need 51%.

NC: Do you think demand is what ends up ruining these natural products?
DP: Yes, for sure. I'm certain mezcal will be the same story as tequila in a few years. But, right now we're getting the best of the best and it's a time to take advantage and try as many as you can while it’s pure. We're still in the beginning phase of mezcal, while we're in the late, commercial stages of tequila.

NC: Did the earthquake impact local drinking culture?
DP: I don't think so. For me, the earthquake was a wake-up call. It was a hard time for me; I didn't live here for 20 years and I had just come back. It made me slow down and appreciate my life.

NC: There is a lot of paraphernalia required when drinking Mezcal, it's almost like a drug.
DP: I think every bar and restaurant has its own paraphernalia and ritual. But, for me, it's not necessarily about tangible pieces, it's more meditative. The paraphernalia for me are: the mood, the place, and the people. You should have a good reason for drinking it. There's a formality to it. It's almost like sitting down with a book; you must have time to spare. Even the mezcal I don't like, I still appreciate because I've discovered and learned something new.

NC: And you're supporting real, hard-working farmers.
DP: You're really giving back to the country, not the narcos. It’s arguably more natural than drugs. Especially the crap you find on the street.

NC: So, who is mezcal really for?
DP: It's for people that want to get to know themselves; it's not about getting drunk. It's a different mindset.

NC: What inspired you to start Mezcal Underground?

[Mezcal Under Ground is an exclusive mezcal club in Mexico City]

DP: I've been working in restaurants and bars for many years. I think I have a special touch when it comes to people, I've simply like to share what I enjoy. It’s sad the way foreigners ask for tequila when they're in Mexico; like that's what they're supposed to ask for. Just because you're in Mexico doesn't mean you have to drink tequila! Why would you have tequila when you can have mezcal? This is the grandfather of tequila.

NC: Higher up the family tree.
DP: It's called The Elixir of the Gods for a reason.

NC: Where can you drink Mezcal in the US? How do you create your own experience and avoid the pitfalls of drinking something adulterated?
DP: Unfortunately, the big brands are making the smaller mezcal producers more expensive in the US and abroad. Mezcal Leyenda can be bought online. Mezcal Union has a shop in San Diego and they take online and phone orders.

NC: Is there a special kind of glassware?
DP: A two-ounce shot glass is more than perfect. You can use glass or clay even though I think you should get the clay flavor from the mezcal directly. The best way to have it is in a type of coconut shell called a jicara. You’ll need some oranges and worm salt, although they make tons of varieties that compliment the experience if the worm thing doesn’t work for you. I prefer using grapefruit instead of oranges, but you can try apples and cucumbers—anything fresh to bend the flavor. You're free to make your own pairings.

NC: If you could describe your ideal Mezcal in five words
DP: Smooth, fiery, sweet, smoky, and deep. And lasting forever on the palette, fuck it, that’s six.

NC: Can mezcal really spare a hangover?

DP: [Lighting a cigarette] What do you think?

Mezcal is the New Holy Water

“Why would you have tequila when you can have mezcal? This is the grandfather of tequila.”